Burgundy Diary - 12/28/10

The Daily Diary of a Wandering Restaurateur
Cosne-sur-Loire

We decided just to wander around the area a bit, burn up some fossil fuel (very American!) and just explore along the river. We glided along the Loire Valley past the vineyards that produce Pouilly Fume and Sancerre wines until we reached the town of Cosne-sur-Loire. It was getting toward 1pm and French dining options, already marginal during the off season anyway, typically shut down totally between 2pm and 7pm.

We weren't very hungry to start with, but thus far on the trip we had yet to set foot in an actual restaurant, bistro or brasserie and I was starting to feel disrespectful of the industry that feeds me, so it was time to take a break and look at a bit of French foodservice.

In France, a restaurant is generally a more elegant, expensive eatery. A brasserie is a large cafe with quick, simple food and drink. A bistro is a smaller neighborhood cafe offering home cooking. In addition there are several other categories (creperies, pizzerias, and such) serving less expensive options, although compared to US prices, none of it is particularly cheap.

A pizzeria or creperie would have been perfect but there were none in sight. The Brasserie Le Paris in the center of town seemed to have what action there was so we tucked in there for a glass of wine and a sandwich. $30 later we left, full enough that the only thing we had to eat for the rest of the day was a gorgeous pear and raspberry tartlette from the bakery around the corner!

The tables on the street were mostly filled and the bar was busy with a stand-up crowd of men just drinking and enjoying each others company well into the afternoon. My guess is that they were all off work this week, but that is only a guess. The scene was animated, though, and that is always good for business.

I promise we will explore more dining options in Nolay. We arrive in this little medieval village in the heart of the primo Burgundy wine region tomorrow night for nine days. They don't have a river running through the back yard, but every direction you turn in Nolay is a postcard picture. I should have a few of those shots for you by Thursday.

[Itinerary Page]