The Daily Diary of a Wandering Restaurateur
Cruising the Christmas Markets

OK, it's the weekend before Christmas in a town known in three countries for its multiple Christmas markets. Where do you think the citizenry within a 100-mile radius will be today and tomorrow? We got out and about for awhile today, but as the day went on, the crowds got bigger (and walking on cobblestones got the better of my new knee), so we kept the excursion short, went back to the apartment and took a nap!


There are pockets of activity all through the old town. A block down the street from our apartment there's a rather interesting pony ride machine where the riders can actually saddle up and "ride" the metal steeds around a track. The horses rock up and down as they go, making it more like riding a real horse. The whole town goes all in on decorations with many of the more interesting buildings making themselves even more interesting. All this is enhanced after dark when the lights come on. I'll have more evening pictures for you later.

Immediately behind the pony ride was a cluster of little sheds, offering food, drink and the various toys, trinkets, lotions, potions and such that most people associate with a European Christmas market. The crowd was too thick to get any decent pictures, but the traditional hot spiced wine was a great idea on a chilly morning and Margene is still raving about the hot chocolate. Pretty much every direction you turn in the historic center is another postcard shot, so as I include random photos that strike me at the moment, I'm just trying to help you get a feel for the place. Is that working?

We had a late lunch in a low-ceilinged Irish pub of all places. I wanted to try one of the local specialties, Tarte Flambée gratinée. While it looks like a pizza and is cooked in the same way, this glorious Alsatian flatbread is topped with a layer of cheese, onions, and bacon, then baked in a hot oven. The cheese in question is fromage blanc, a fresh, spreadable white cheese made with skimmed milk. It has a very sharp tanginess (think very sour yogurt and you'll have the general idea). Because the cheese itself has no fat content, some variations of the dish mix the cheese with crème fraîche to give it more creaminess.

If you want to try making it yourself -- and I'd recommend my pizzeria clients try making at least a test pie or two -- you can find recipes online that will also suggest workable alternatives to the fromage blanc which will likely be more difficult to find outside of Alsace. If you have a Trader Joe's in your area, pick up a Tarte d'Alsace in the frozen food case and you'll have a fairly decent product that makes a great cocktail party munchie.

The local patisserie (pastry shop) is a daily stop for croissants and other bakery delicacies. Some have a variety of fresh bread and baguettes, although strictly speaking you would find bread in a boulangerie. But whatever the baked good in question, the French have the process dialed in!


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