The Daily Diary of a Wandering Restaurateur
Rolling On the River
Lunch at Taverne du Remparts just outside the chateau entrance was a pleasant relief from all the stone of the castle. Their dining patio was shaded and the food, as usual, was excellent. Steve, Lynn and I went with the garlic soup, a typically local dish. I'm guessing pureed garlic with some chicken stock and a touch of cream and white wine with crusty pieces of bread floating in it. We are in search of the recipe.
Margene's omelette was plump with ham, cheese, potatoes, mushrooms and onions. I like that they always serve a green salad with an item like this, usually very lightly dressed with a slightly mustard-y vinaigrette. Even the side of French fries seemed prettier than an order of fries in the US! Maybe its just that they seem to treat food with more respect.
Late in the afternoon we took a river cruise. No matter that we could see many of these sights from the house, the perspective from the river made us think of what it must have been like to approach Beynac back in the Middle Ages. Not much has changed other than the mode of transportation on the roads.
The structure with all the little windows tucked under the cliff is an old pigeonnaire. Back in the day, pigeons were used as messengers, for food and their guano made powerful fertilizer. The house with the mansard roof is our joint. Margene and I are on the level with the balcony. Steve and Lynn are on the top floor, Eric and Heidi are on the garden level.
Then we have Chateau de Marqueyssac through the trees, Chateau Fayrac (now owned by a couple from Texas!) and another shot of Beynac from the water.
Tonight was barbeque night. The lamb steaks have been marinating in olive oil, garlic and rosemary for two days and this may prove to be the big production meal of the trip. We improvised a chimney from an empty wine box to get the charcoal lit and turned Steve loose to work his magic. First two heads of garlic wrapped in foil, then the grilled vegetables (zucchini, red peppers and onions) and finally the lamb, quickly cooked to a perfect medium rare. A cool breeze, copious quantities of good wine and compatible travel partners ... how much better than this does it get?
© 2011 Restaurant Doctor
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