The daily diary of a wandering restaurateur
May 23 - Todi, Spoleto

What can I say? Today was a down day for us all -- a vacation from the vacation. I slept in until 9 then spent a couple of hours finishing up the travelogues for the last couple of days. Kenn decided that he wasn't even going to leave the house all day, so we did laundry (the villa has a clothes washer but drying is still done outside on the line), then I drove Margene and Elizabeth over to the town of Spoleto, about 45 minutes away. It was an easy trip and the town, while interesting, seemed very folded-in on itself. Tiny little streets and alleys winding everywhere, small piazza spaces -- sort of like the compact version of an Umbrian hill town. Lunch in a café on the lower piazza, then a couple of hours in the upper town was enough . . . for Elizabeth and Margene. I stayed in the car and read a book! A day off my feet was on my "to do" list as well!

We stopped off at a supermarcato on the way home and stocked up the kitchen. (Like I said, Kenn was not planning to leave the house today.) Tonight the dinner was gnocchi, fresh mozarella and tomatoes, crusty local bread , fresh greens and a couple of nice wines. The Sangiovese is particularly interesting. We also got a bottle of Orvieto Amible which is slightly sweeter than the dry finish that we usually see. The wine guide says that the dry Orvieto was developed for those, primarily in the US market, who have "become accustomed to the taste of bad Chardonnay." It was too sweet for my taste (does that say something about my taste in Chardonnay?") but was perfect for the ladies. For dolce, a touch of Vin Santo, a lovely dessert wine, finished off a delightfully low-key day.

Tomorrow we are back on the road -- two hours to Siena, most likely with dinner on the way back in a little restaurant outside Citta della Pieve that we found last summer. But for today there is nothing much to report. No pictures, nothing. Niente. We are winding down. Live with it!


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