The Daily Diary of a Wandering Restaurateur
January 29 - Agra Fort and Beyond
Every guide has to try to get his commissions so this time the stop was at one of the Cottage Industries showrooms for a quick explanation of how they do the intricate marble inlays followed by a lengthy sales presentation. There is no question that the work is exceptional but how much of this stuff do we really need? As befits the workmanship, the pieces are not inexpensive (the table top in the center runs US$20K!) Margene managed to escape with a small plate for under $100. Be sure to ask to see it!
The Agra Fort was built by the grandfather of Shah Jahan, the Mughal emperor who built the Red Fort in Delhi (and the Taj Mahal by the way). Like the Red Fort it is part defensive installation and part palace. The sad story is that Shah Jahan was overthrown by his own son who imprisoned him in Agra Fort. His apartment is certainly an upscale cell but he was not allowed to leave and could only watch his precious Taj Mahal being built across the river. He died before it was completed and is buried there next to his wife, for whom the building was designed.
We made a short detour into the wilds of beautiful downtown Agra -- another mini-adventure -- to find some hair spray for Margene. At times like this, a guide is priceless. Without a little help from the locals, how would we have even known where to look? I continue to be amazed (and unnerved) by the Indian power grid.
On the train to Jaipur we shared the compartment with Dr. Flora, a member of the Indian government's chemical warfare protection group. He lives outside Agra and was traveling to Jaipur to present a paper at a professional symposium. Our conversation covered his work, an unexplained arsenic contamination in eastern India and the state of affairs between India and Pakistan. We also talked about travel (he lived in the US for several years as well as England and Australia), US politics (everyone seems very hopeful about President Obama) and even the origin of the turban and its variations around the world. Chance encounters like this are the real treats of the trip ... and we would never have them if we were traveling with a tour group.
© 2009 Restaurant Doctor
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