The Daily Diary of a Wandering Restaurateur
February 5 - Nachana Haveli



Nachana Haveli, our home in the desert, was once the home of the Maharajah of Nachana, ruler of this entire area. In fact, his descendents still live here although even princes have to work these days. The haveli is built around three courtyards and is over 300 years old. Saffron, their rooftop restaurant, has a reputation as among the best places in town to eat. The menu is ambitious, the prep time is slow but the food has really been quite tasty ... and very reasonable priced.

This is our modest little room in this ancient mansion. The ceilings are at least 20 feet high ... even in the bathroom ... and the thick stone walls keep the place comfortably cool even in the heat of the day.



Life seems to happen on the roof, particularly after dark. The town is dominated by the Golden Fort which changes color with the setting sun and is nicely lit at night. The beer is cold, the women are hot(!) and there is always some little slice of life to observe ... like doing the wash in the dark. The building itself takes on a mystical quality after dark and it is easy to fantasize about living in another era. Isn't that part of what travel should be about?


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