The daily diary of a wandering restaurateur
May 30 - Varenna
The three major lakes north of Milan are Maggiore, Lugano (which is actually in Switzerland) and Como. The last time we were up this way, we stayed above Lake Maggiore. These are glacial in origin and as you can see, the mountains come right down to water level. Lake Como is the most developed of the three in that there are many towns around its shores. There is an extensive network of car and people ferries connecting the towns. The lake is shaped like an upside-down Y with Como and Lecco the largest towns at the bottom of each leg. Bellagio is the town at the center point. Slightly to the north, the principle town on the western shore is Mennagio and on the eastern shore, Varenna where we are staying.
We are staying at the Hotel Olivedo right at the ferry terminal. The town of Varenna is a pretty little place built into the side of the hill about halfway up the eastern shore of the lake.
Up every side street is another postcard shot. The main road through town is several hundred feet above lake level, meaning that to get from one to the other, you climb lots of steps. Our room is on the very top floor of the hotel, also necessitating lots of steps!
© 2003 Restaurant Doctor
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