The Daily Diary of a Wandering Restaurateur
Moseying Through Montepulciano

Do most Americans feel guilty if they're not "doing something" all the time? Based on my observations, I'd say that's true. At least, I noticed it in myself today. Yesterday was cold and damp with on and off rain. Today was cool but sunny, without a cloud in the sky. While it was pleasant just to relax in the apartment, it seemed somehow wrong not to be out and about on such a pretty day.

For some reason, Margene only got a few hours sleep last night and was just out of sync today with no ambition to go anywhere or do anything. The nice thing about having an apartment and being in one spot for a week is that a down day here or there is really no big deal. What we don't do today we can always do tomorrow ... or the day after ... or perhaps not at all!

So after a leisurely breakfast, she read for awhile and I brought the trip report up to date. Eventually made lunch from the leftover pici I brought home on Monday night. Margene lay down for a nap and I set off to wander the medieval streets and just soak up the timeless ambience of this magical town.



Montepulciano is a place that you feel as much -- or perhaps more -- than you see it. Photos will give you some idea of what it looks like, but the real experience, at least for me, is to be totally enveloped in the textures of the place. I wandered through some of the back streets away from our normal paths of travel and eventually found myself on the main drag directly across from Caffe Poliziano. It must be time for an espresso!


Caffe Poliziano is another treat for the eyes. It is far and away the most elegant and distinguished cafe in town, carefully restored to it glorious 1800s art nouveau style. There was something remarkably civilized about sipping espresso by the large window overlooking Tuscany, Umbria and Lake Trasimeno. I recommend it highly.


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