The Daily Diary of a Wandering Restaurateur
Antik Side

The Route You don't have to go far to find evidence of ancient civilizations along the Turkish coast ... and several of them are in the neighborhood. Today we sweated it out in Antik Side (old Side). The city was originally founded by Greek settlers, most likely in the 7th century BC where the good harbor and natural geography made it one of the most important trade centers in the region.

Alexander the Great occupied Side in 333 BC. The city was later ruled by Ptolomey, and a series of other conquerors including the Cilician pirates who made it their chief naval base and a center for their slave trade in the first century BC.

In 78 BC the Romans drove out the pirates and took control of the city, which eventually grew to 60,000 residents. From then until the third century AD, Side thrived as a slave-trading center with a home-grown commercial fleet of pirates. Most of the ruins we see now were from the Roman period.

Today the old and the new are entwined, with the more recent developments in the old town interspersed among many of the old ruins. Most of the site does not require paid access and wandering bands of tourists were everywhere. We heard more Russian and German than we have thus far, along with Italian, French, Turkish (of course) and a smattering of English. We have repeatedly been told that Americans are a rarity in Turkey.

Our rationale behind coming in May was that the temperature would be warm but not yet beastly hot. Although the thermometer may say it is in the high 70s, the effect of humidity and bright sun reduce us to dish rags quickly. Our tolerance seems to be about two hours.


Mornings and evenings are lovely and temperate. Augustus Village seems to be almost deserted at the moment. I assume that is just because we are still in the pre-season, but we have no idea how many of the units are sold. Could it really be just an upscale ghost town? I'll try to find out.



Wandering through the ruins of Side reminded me of our visit to Pompeii in that it was easier to get a sense of the way the town had been organized.


Walking the streets of town adjacent to the ruins means running a gauntlet of shopkeepers and vendors, all of whom try to catch your attention and lure you into their shops. I appreciate pride in your product but the pitches are so canned and insincere that it is like verbal spam -- unwanted and unappreciated.

We desperately needed to find a cool spot to lower our body temperatures and finally spotted a cafe by the water where a strong offshore wind at least promised some relief. A couple of cold beers and a shared vegetarian pizza were just enough. (No pork products in a Muslim country!) I was interested to see that this vegetarian offering included peas and corn on the pie. You can also see how the newer commercial developments are in and among the ancient relics.


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