The Daily Diary of a Wandering Restaurateur
February 5 - Makin' Tracks to Jaisalmer

The Devi Bhawan was so spacious and comfortable that we hated to leave ... but leave we must ... for another 5+ hours on the road. It seems like a longer time in transit but it is faster than the train (Genie can't handle another train trip anyway) and from what I have seen of the Indian plane schedules, I'm not sure but what it might be faster than flying. Granted, the flight is less than an hour but when you figure having to arrive at the airport an hour or so before the scheduled departure ... and then that the flight will likely be between 30-90 minutes late ... and add in transit time to and from town to the airports ... it might come out about even. At least we get to work to our own schedule!

Jaisalmer (pronounced like Jai-sameer) is on the edge of the Thar Desert, almost on the Pakistan border. It is the easternmost city in India and a long drive from anywhere else. The generally remote location has kept much of creeping citification at bay so it is about as close to what Rajasthan used to be as you can find any more. While it still has a lot of the frenetic confusion that is India, at the same time there is a little quieter tone to it all. I don't feel as drawn to it as we were to Udaipur, but it is a pleasant place to visit and definitely worth the trouble it takes to get here.

The surprise turned out to be that Nachana Haveli, our new temporary home, was originally built as the residence for the Maharajah of Nachana, the ancient ruler of this part of the country. It is not at all palace-like, but it is still in the family and the descendents of the first Maharajah still live here.

On the Road to Jaisalmer

Nachana Haveli


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